Tag Archives: Rurrenabaquine

Rurrenabaque – the Bolivian jungle and pampas (II)

And just like that Monday came, and we finally found ourselves (not without hitches – banks that are said to be open at 8 but actually open at 8.30, documents they need but don’t bother to tell us in advance, etc. etc. etc.) in front of the jeep that was ready to take us to our dream lands. We were a group of eight: three French ladies, three Israelis and the two of us. After half an hour spent together it was clear as day light: the dynamic of our group was going to be interesting to say the least!

The first day

After 3 hours in the jeep on a not only unpaved and riddled road, but full of puddles and mud thanks to the rain the day before, we arrived at the place where we were to change our means of transport to a boat. The moment we got off the jeep we were mercilessly attacked by a herd of mosquitoes that was expecting us and our fresh blood! We immediately took out all our defense weapons (in the form of sprays, creams and solutions that all had a lower or higher concentration of DEET) and we insecticized ourselves from head to toe. We then realized we had landed there in the middle of the day, under a killer sun, so we took out different creams and proceeded to applying all those as well.

By the time we got on the boat we were all fully embalmed, ready for the 3 hours journey down the river. They were some awesome three hours, during which we were amazed not only at the wonderful vegetation that was waving to us from the banks and the beautiful birds that gracefully appeared and disappeared, but especially at the turtles having their siesta unhindered, like grannies absorbing the sun, at the aligators which made their subte appearence from the water or from under a tree branch or bush, at the largest rodent in the world (boy was I glad when we were told it was vegetarian), at the small and large monkeys that went crazy at the appearance of a banana from our boatman’s pocket, and, of course, at the pink and slippery dolphins that appeared as the famous Flipper and delighted our eyes and hearts. Boca and I could not resist and jumped in for a short swim in their presence, 5 minutes after we had seen a crocodile enjoying his day in the sun. “Is it safe to swim here?”. “Sure, totally safe”. “What about the aligator?” “Oh, don’t worry, dolphins and aligators can’t be in the same place, so swim without fear.” We were told later that dolphins are found in deep water, while aligators spend their time in shallow water. The things you learn while living, huh? 

We reached the camp in time to take a much desired and needed cold shower before we all sat in the mirador to watch the sunset. As soon as darkness set, the surrounding noise became so intense that we felt we were in the middle of a green concert.

After dinner (which was totally delicious!) we went out on the river to see the eyes of the alligators glistening in the dark. They can only be seen with the help of a flashlight, and only from a certain angle – so you could see them very well if you had a lantern on your head, but the person next to you could not see anything using your light because it was a different angle. For me it was quite fascinating to see two red or white beads shining in the dark, and know those were the scary reptiles from TV that could eat your entire leg in one bite. They seemed pretty friendly to me that night… but were they really?:D

My favorite moments in that boat under the star filled sky were those in which we all swiched off our flashlights and closed our mouth… and remained in complete darkness and silence for several minutes. Well, actually the darkness was not complete as the moon and stars were shining brightly… Nor was it complete silence, as nature was in full concert. Amongst the most magnificent I had ever witnessed. And I could not get enough of listening to it.

After we got back to camp, we immediately jumped in our beds covered with mosquito nets and I fell asleep feeling like a princess in her royal bed. I slept so well that at 4am when I opened my eyes I felt rested, energized, ready to take on another day of adventure. It was still dark outside, so I returned to my peaceful sleep, but not before spending a few minutes listening to the fantastic performance outside. A superb combination of different sounds of insects, birds and animals announcing their awakening, and also announcing the sunrise. I fell asleep with a smile on my face and was startled awake an hour later by some noises that seemed to come from a war taking place just outside our window. A mixture of pigs at the slaughter house, pissed off dogs about to stick their teeth in someone’s face, gorillas with a whooping cough and lions choking on a fish bone. I had never heard such a cacophony of sounds before, and the moment I met the man living there I asked him what was all that hullabaloo in the morning. “Ah, that’s just the monkeys”, he said, “that’s the noise they make every morning when they wake up, and they sound the alarm from all corners of the forest “. Monkeys??? Judging by the intensity of the noise I had expected to hear about rhinos, dinosaurs, dragons that let out fire through their nostrils … never about monkeys. Another lesson on judgments, especially judgments about things completely unfamiliar.

The second day

After breakfast the plan was to have a walk in the pampas in search of anacondas. Those who panicked at the sound of that word were explained that the Jennifer Lopez movie was made in order to make money, not to depict reality. Apparently the anaconda is, as many other beings, a creature that attacks only when disturbed, and human deaths from encounters with anacondas are almost nonexistent. The huge snake does not have any desire to meet bipeds, and we were told the chances for us to see one that morning were not guaranteed. Therefore, after the 2-3 hours walk under the deadly sun through puddles and grass that came up to our waist, we did not meet the giant uncle. Those who went in search of it the next day found him right away though, all 3 meters of him. Well, next time:)

What I gained after that walk though was a farewell party in the honour of my socks, because my rubber boots had a hole somewhere and the result was this:

Beyond washable, I decided.

Another memorable and delicious moment took place in the “bathroom” area: a bunch of barracks with a toilet or shower inside. While brushing my teeth I heard a desperate cry from one of the barracks, and immediately saw Boca coming out of it with a grin halfway between amusement and despair. The reason: she realized she was sharing the toilet seat with a frog. Truly priceless moment!

After a well deserved rest in the hammock and sustaiend efforts not to be eaten alive by the mosquitoes, in the second part of the day we went to meet the pink dolphins again, and have another go at swimming with them. They were not exactly like Flipper, to come and take us by the hand or offer their wing as support, but they did come about a meter away to inspect us. Or who knows, maybe they passed 10cm from us, but unfortunately the water was far from “crystal clean”, so I guess we can never know. It was a great experience nevertheless!

We ended the day playing volleyball on our guide’s property, with his two adorable girls, and then watched a spectacular sunset while holding a lager in our hand, as any citizen would find suitable.

The third day

The next morning we were woken up by the same grotesque concert, and this time I went outside to inspect, take a look at those noisy monkeys. Unfortunately they were not close enough to be see with the naked eye, especially through the density of the trees. Instead I spent some time admiring the vultures and falcons that were spying on me from the top of the trees, and later had an attempt to befriend one of the small monkeys that inhabited the trees near the kitchen. My fascination with monkeys goes back to times immemorial, and as a child I could never understand why my parents would not buy me one as a pet. They finally managed to shut me up by buying me a stuffed monkey, Chocho, who became my pillow companion for many years. Later, when I grew up and started to travel to exotic lands, the monkeys were on the top of my “animals to see live” list. When I finally had the opportunity to observe them closely in Bali, I spent hours with them in the forest, analyzing with utter fascination their gestures that seemed so … human. “They’re like miniature people” I kept exclaiming with a grin, mainly to myself as there was noone else around to listen. For me … those few hours were really a dream come true.

That doesn’t mean I ever got over my fascination with our primate cousins, and every time I see them I have the same “weeeeeeeee” reaction. Boca, knowing all this, brought me some mangoes that morning to offer them. One of them really seemed to want to make friends … but that was only until she managed to steal all the fruit from my hand, and then disappear without a trace back into the thickness. Ungrateful little … biped.

After breakfast we went on our last little trip, this time fishing for piranha. Fishing was never on my list of hobbies, and it certainly become even less so after that experience. Pretty much everyone in the group managed to catch at least one fish, and I caught about 3 until I decided I had too much talent at this and I had to put an end to the torture. I almost cried when I got one and saw the hook piercing through its mouth … Argh, I don’t eat much fish anyway, but after that experience it’s very likely there will be an even futher decrease in the consumption of the scaled beings.

I did satisy my desire to inspect their teeth, though (like a tiny saw, fascinating), and I then looked one straight in the face and told it “Bite me!” In that very moment it moved, and only my well developed reflex saved me from having my finger perforated. “Careful!!” shouted our guide, “You were very lucky, I thought he got you! Be careful because they can very easily bite you.” A joke is a joke, but … the piranhas don’t seem to speak much English. Or maybe their sense of humour is just… different.

We took as a group 3 piranhas for lunch, just to taste. They don’t fish them recklessly as there’s a limited stocks. I tried a piece myself, and what can I say, it tasted like … fish. After lunch we started back towards civilization, another 3 hours on the boat and another 3 in the jeep that shook every little bit of our being. When we got back to Rurrenabaque, a final surprise was waiting for us there: a sloth! I asked if I could hold it, and when I put my hands around it I was invaded by this incredible feeling of love for the little animal, the laziest in the world. Lazy or not, he looked at me with the most adorable eyes and that permanent smile on his face, and out of the blue… he winked at me! My heart melted and I completely forgot about the claws he had stuck in my wrist… “He winked at me, did you see that, did you see???”

We checked into a place again, this time in Santa Ana, a hostel where we paid exactly half the price we paid in Orient, for almost identical conditions. After a well needed shower, the conclusion was as follows: 93mosquito bites, without including those on my back. And this was after using two mosquito sprays in 3 days. Nah! At the end of the day though, our conclusion was it was all worth it! The experience itself, and also the experience with the people we were with – as I had suspected at the beginning, there was no lack of conflict, and for Boca and me it was such a great lesson observing the group dynamics and especially our reactions to their reactions. We realized that 2-3 years before, our perception, behavior and reactions would have been quite different. Few things bring you more satisfaction than looking back and realising how much you’ve grown up.

In conclusion… jungle, baby, jungle!!

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Anakonda, rózsaszin delfin, krokodil, béka, óriás fehér madarak, piranha, sas és lajhár – mindezek testközelből

Ana, anakonda…

Másnap a reggeli isteni finomságos csodákat tartogatott számunkra, ami egy mamita helyben készített. Volt vagy 6 fogás a sima kernyér és lekváron kívül. Fele sós, fele édes.. yamm…

Reggeli után mindenki kapott egy gumicsizmát, amiknek fele itt-ott lyukas volt, s amit sokan csak a folyó átkelésnél észleltek (mint pl én is) J, s már indulhattunk is anakonda keresőbe. A folyón lecsobogtunk egy kicsit, majd a partra szállva kezdtünk el sétállni. Fél órába telt, mire a mocsaras tájhoz értünk, miközben sikerült krokodilt is látni olyan 3 m távolságból. Ekkor már olyan 11 óra volt, s a nap teljes erejével sütött, ami olyan 35 fokot eredményezett. Persze mi hosszú nadrágban, gumicsizmával, s hosszú ujjasban (a szúnyogok ellen) voltunk, így lassan már folyt rólunk a víz, s nemgyőztük magunkba önteni a vizet. Olyan 1 órát járkálhattunk a mocsárban, ami persze nem volt valami egyszerű csimmában, így volt aki bele is esett.  Nekem sikerült egy kézletétellel és teljes nadrág koszolással megúszni a dolgot J Sajnos anakondát nem láttunk aznap, ami vezetőnk szerint azért is volt, mert a vízszint nagyon alacsony, így szétszélednek a kígyócskák. Így egy anakonda élménnyel kevesebbel, de annál boldogabban tértünk vissza a szállásra, ahol végre kivakarhattuk magunkat a sárból.

Egy emléket azért sikerült megkaparintanom: a mocsárban megpillantottam egy hatalmas (fél méter), tökéletes csodaszép fehér tollat, amiért el is másztam és meg is mentemmel magamnak, s szemeim előtt láttam is, ahogy használni fogom a tűz szertartások alkalmával otthon…

Delfin uszi

Délutánra ismét a folyón való csónakázás következett, amibe beiktattunk egy kis uszikálást is. A folyó bizonyos, méllyebb szakaszában rózsaszin 1m-es delfinek élnek, amiket a csónakból láttunk is. Úszni is lehetett velük, vagyis csak velük egy vízben, mert közel nem jöttek a drágák. De sebaj, mi tudjuk, hogy ott voltak J Láttuk őket 2mre előttünk a vízben, mikor úszkáltunk, aztán hirtelen mögöttünk jelentek meg. Szóval időközben elúsztak alatunk vagy mellettünk, de mivel a víz nem volt valami kristály tiszta, így nem lehetettt őket látnia avízben, csak ha kidugták fejüket. Mindenesetre jó élmény volt.

Ültetek már együtt egy békával a WC-n?

Este a naplement megnézése után visszatértünk szállásunkra, ahol is sikerült egy békával megosztanom a WC-t. Hát az úgy volt, hogy az egész szállás egszerű faházakból állt külön mosdóval, ahol rengetek opció volt különböző állatoknak beköltözni, s este ráadásul elég sötét van már ahhoz, hogy jól láss. Én mit sem sejtve, szépen elmentem dolgomat végezni, ám mikor a lehúzóért nyúltam vettem csak észre, hogy a WC ülőkén már ült valaki J Kisebb felkiálltással vettem tudomását a jövevénynek, amiután nagy nevetésbe törtem ki a kint fogat mosó 4 másik emberrrel együtt. De hát ilyen ez egy dzsungelben, vagyis a pampa túrán, mert a dzsungel túrán ugyan ez Tarantulákkal fordulhat elő… akkor már inkábba a béka J

Piranha halászat

Utolsó nap reggeli után piranhákra mentünk el horgászni. Ugyanabban a folyóban, ahol a delfinek is élnek, vannak a piranhák is (csak a sekélyebb részén). Mindeki kapott egy horgot damilon, s egy-két hús cafatot, amit a horogra erősítve indulhatott is a horgászás. Mindenkinek sikerült legalább 1 halacskát fognia, nekem 3at is különböző szinekben. Volt amelyik sárgás volt, volt amelyik rózsaszines. Valaki szardíniát is fogott, amik fel lettek áldozva további piranha halászására. Időnk végére sikerült néhány ehető méretű halat fogni, mert ugye a kicsiket visszadobtuk, s ebédre el is fogasztottuk őket.

És igen, a piranháknak tényleg van foguk….

MADAR lesben

Ebéd után kicsit még pihentünk, én például filmezve a madarakat. Merthogy a tábor körüli fák tele voltak madarakkal. Két félével is, solyom és keselyu. Emellett még baglyot is lehetett látni. Én csak leültem a fák közelében és néztem, ahogy a sasok egyik fáról a másikra, majd elém a földre repülnek, s az oda nekik szórt ételt eszegetik. Csodálatos érzés volt ilyen közel lenni olyan állatokhoz, amiket csak messzi távolból láttam eddig. A nyugodtság, ami a környezeten uralkodott ráragadt mindannyiunkra. Percekig el se hittem, hogy ezek a lélegzet elállító madarak ott előttem csemegéznek rám se hederítve. Közel lenni a természethez csodálatos dolog. Megismerkedni az állatokkal még jobb. Remélem a mai gyerekek nem csak a playstation-ön meg a számítógépes játékok nőlnek fel, hanem megismerik környezetünk csodáit is.

Ezek után nem vol tmás hátra, minthogy összeszedtük sátorfánkat és visszacsobogtunk a kezdőponthoz, ahol már jeep-ünk várt ránk, hogy visszavigyen minket a városba.

Lajhár koma

Megérkezésünkkor egy másik nagy meglepetés várt minket, mert valaki talált a dzsungelben egy bébi lajhárt és annak keresett gazdát, így alkalmunk volt találkozni és fogni egy lajhár kölyköt a kezünkben. Lajhárkám, mintha be lett volna szívva folyamatsan csak mosolygott és lassan mozgatta a felyét jobbra, balra. Kezével, lábával, amin hatalmas karmok voltak, mindig kapaszkodott valamibe vagy valakibe. Szürkés szőre olyan puha volt, mint a selyem, így öröm volt simogatni.

A 3 napos túránk nagyon jól let el. A pampa túrát mindenkinek csak ajánlani tudom, s ha van időtök, akkor a dzsungel túrát is. Mind a kettőt La Pazban érdemes lefoglalni és fizetni, mert ott csak 590 Boliviánóba kerül fejenként plusz egy 150 Boliviánós Nemzeti Park belépő, de ha valaki helyben Rurrenabaquine-ban szeretné lefoglalni, akkor 900 boliviánóról indul az ár és csak nagy alkudozással lehet 750-re lebeszélni. Ez azért van, mert helyben a kormány törvényben kötelezi az utazási irodákat, hogy nem mehetnek 850 alá. Mi erről elfeledkeztünk, így helyben kellett alkudoznunk, s szerencsénkre sikerült egy helyet taláni, ahol 700 boliviánóért elvittek minket.

A Nap Sziget inka maradványai, s s Nap Isten szülőhelye, mindez a következőkben…

Rurrenabaque – the Bolivian jungle and pampas (I)

Every child’s jungle fantasy – having a long chat with the powerful Baloo, wise Kaa and magnificent Bagheera… who would ever refuse such a meeting?

We had been to the jungle before in Malaysia, Thailand and Indonesia, but those in Peru and Bolivia seemed to be different, special. In Peru we had been to the high jungle in Quillabamba, but what we really wanted was to go deep into the jungle and spend some time far away from civilization, with only the locals, animals (even if not really panthers and bears) and, if need be, the omnipresent mosquitoes. We haven’t had the chance to do that yet, but it’s still on the list, no problem.

We knew nothing about the jungles of Bolivia before we headed there, except for “It’s awesome, it really is”. We read a few lines in the Lonely Planet and chose one of the cities listed, thinking that once we arrived in Rurrenabaque (the chosen city) we’ll figure out how we can get to the depths of the jungle. Unfortunately we realized the only way (that we found at least, without knowing anybody around and not enough guts to go out into the jungle by ourselves) was again through a guided tour. So until other options were to make themselves known, we had to go for the only one available at the present moment.

The trip from La Paz to Rurrenabaque

We arrived in La Paz at 7am after a night spent of the bus from Potosi, and the plan was to get out of there as quickly as possible (just in case we would, God forbid, find ourselves with enough time on our hands for … shopping). Fortunately we found out the buses leave for the jungle between 10.30am to 12pm, so we chose one of the five existing companies (Vaca Diez, which we completely and insistently do NOT recommend) and we were ready to get on our bus at 12pm . So were nearly 50 other passengers… but unfortunately our readiness was totally futile in the absence of a vehicle that we could actually board. I walked slowly to the company’s “office” – which consisted of a table that was more on the street than inside a building – and I asked about the absence of the bus that would take us to the far away land. I was told with just as much softness: “Oh, it’s on the way, stuck in traffic a bit, but it’s coming soon, coming soon.”

I had no reason to doubt the man’s words. But half an hour later when I went back to him and got the exact same answer, this time I needed just a little more information “And when exactly is it coming? ‘” Quickly, coming quickly.” “Like in … 5 minutes? Half an hour?”. “Uhm … quickly. It’s on its way. ” “I understand, it’s been on its way for half an hour already, so what does ‘quickly’ mean? Another half an hour? More?”. “Uhm… Yes, about half an hour. ” It was obvious he had just given me an answer to get me off his back, but I was not going to argue with the man, so I returned to the status of “waiting indefinitely”.

An hour later I was breathing more quickly already and I did not walk over to the man as casually as before. “Ya viene, ya viene… no te preocupes” (It’s coming soon, it’s coming, don’t worry). “No te preocupes? No te preocupes? How can I not me preocupo when I’m here waiting for almost 2 hours for a bus that doesn’t seem to come? At least tell me one way or another, to know should we stay here and wait by the road side, or can we go somewhere to get some lunch?”. “Oh, yes, you can definitely go have lunch because after it arrives we need to load some things on it and it will take a while”. “A while?”. “Maybe half an hour. Or a bit more.” “A bit more?”. “Maybe an hour. Maximum one hour. ”

In the last hour we had watched with fascination as another bus was being loaded, and we knew it would take more than an hour for sure. By the time we left for lunch the bus finally appeared, with “only” two hours delay. Another hour later we returned from lunch to find the bus almost double in height than we had left it: when they said they were gonna load it, well they were gonna load it!

Of course we had to wait another hour for the bus to be fully loaded, so we managed to finally make a move at… 4pm. When we started we did not actually think that the coach would be able to start moving, overloaded as it was with stuff and passengers – the only thing missing was for us to sit on each others’ lap, as the aisle was full of luggages and blankets and small screaming children.

But ok, we started moving, so what’s worse is behind us, we thought in our extreme naivity. The trip was supposed to last for 16 hours, and just in case that wasn’t enough, of course our overloaded bus turned into a turtle-vehichle and we arrived in Rurrenabaque after 24 hours. The delay was a third of the original time! And in this journey that lasted for a full day and night, we prayed for Valium. The heat was suffocating, and in the of course complete lack of air conditioning, our only hope was to open the window. But opening the window meant suicide, as the dust from the unpaved road hit you in the face ruthlessly before you had time to even think that you’re suffocating. Crying babies and a horrifying music that was screaming out of the speakers until 11 pm, then a desperate woman who woke up screaming in the middle of the night that she wanted to get down because we were going to fall into off the road into the gap (the road we were on was carved in the mountain and it was the size of a single lane, with the mountain to our right and … nothing to our left. Gap. So when we met a car coming from the opposite direction and our driver had to show off his reversing skills, he got pretty close to the other side, and some people really got scared…) Anyway, to sum it up, that was not the calmest and quietest night of my life, and certainly not one full of dreams with fairies and badgers.

Finally at our destination

But, as it happens in happy ending movies, we finally reached our destination, safe and sane (barely, barely). We took a taxi (two motorcycles, to be exact) towards a hostel which I had read about in the Lonely Planet. When we were dropped in front, the sign at the entry said “Hotel”, and the prices seemed to indicate that was indeed the case. We later realized I had read the “Accommodation” section completely unaccurately. But after 28 hours of … well, I guess it’s understandable.

However, as our eyes met the inside of the above mentioned hotel (called Orient), we knew immediately we wouldn’t have the power to say no to staying there, even though it would cost us USD11 per night per person (which is really cheap for a hotel, but compared to the 4-5USD we were used to paying…). Considering the fatigue in our bones, the incredible mixture of sweat and dust on our body (in other words, filth) and the desperate noises coming from our stomach, we could say only yes to the big belly uncle who welcomed us: yes, we will stay here tonight, because we deserve a night here in your little Paradise, after sleeping for 8 months only in places with “s”…
 The uncle probably did not know all this, but he was touched by our appearance of freshly arrived from a pilgrimage, so he served us a fresh mango juice with an attached smile, then led us to our room.

On the way there, our eyes met this

and we knew we had chosen well, and we knew we really were in Paradise. And we behaved accordingly

Finding a tour

In the evening we went out to explore the town, and also to check out the jungle tour options. We had to choose between the jungle and the pampas, and we ended up choosing the pampas because there were many more animals involved (crocodiles, anacondas, piranhas, this kind of gentle creatures). The jungle was more about vegetation, insects, birds and the like, and because we had been in similar setting before (although these were surely different, but still), we chose to see what we’ve never seen before. And if the opportunity arises, to swim with the pink dolphins while at it (now between you and me, this was the main reason for choosing the pampas, as swimming with dolphins was a definite childhood dream).

All good then, till we got to the price. In La Paz we had entered an agency to ask about Uyuni, and the lady showed us their offer for the jungle tour as well, just for our information. But as we were not interested, we didn’t pay much attention. We remember only the price: 590 Bolivianos. So when we were told in Rurrenabaque 900 Bolivianos… we felt a bit dizzy. Later we found out that due to some regulation imposed by the government, the 900 was the minimum they were allowed to charge the tourists in order to stay legal. In La Paz, however, the tour agencies sell it cheaper. Because… why not? So if you plan a jungle tour in Bolivia, remember to book it in La Paz!

After negotiations worthy of veteran backpackers, we managed to get the tour for 700 Bolivianos – not 590, but not 900 either. All good again, until the moment we were to pay. Not enough Bolivianos! Can we pay by card? Obviously not. Is there any ATM around? Yes there is, but it’s only open on weekdays… and today is Saturday. Another way of saying “bad luck”. How about we give you some money in advance and we pay you the rest when we come back on Wednesday? Errrr, no, that won’t work because “this is actually not my place, and the owner is away, and I can’t reach him, and I can’t take responsibility … and … and … and you have to wait until Monday “.

And that’s how we ended up spending our Sunday moving from one hammock to another, biting from a mango or another, slapping a mosquito on a piece of leg where the insecticide hadn’t reached… Well, this kind of hard life occupations :).

(to be continued with the 3 days spent in the pampas)

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A dzsungel könyve – Rurrenabaquine

Egy másik érdekesség Bolíviában a dzsungel. Ezt több városból is meg lehet közelíteni, mi az egyik leghíresebbet, Rurenabaquine-t választottuk.


Indulás 4 óra késéssel

La Pazból egy 16 órás busz út vezet eme kisvárosba. Körülbelül 3-4 busztársaság megy minden nap 11 óra körül ugyanarról a helyről. Mi a Vaca Diez (Tíz tehén) társaságot választottuk szerencsétlenségünkre. A busz délben kellett volna hogy induljon de még12.30kor sem volt se híre se hamva. Iunia 15 percenként kérdezte, hogy jön e a busz vagy, hogy miért késik, de erre senki nem nagyon tudott válaszolni. Mindig csak azt mondták, hogy ne izguljunk jön majd valamikor. Mi igen is izgultunk, de ezzel mi voltunk az egyetlenek. Mondták, hogy nyugodtan menjünk el ebédelni ha akarunk, mert valószínű van rá időnk, így el is mentünk. S igazuk is volt, mert a busz nem jött meg 2ig. persze nagyon még nem örülhettünk, mert ekkor még fel kellet rakodni a buszra. Ez persze nem csak a szokásos, mindenki dobálja be a csomagját a csomagtartóba, s 10 perc mulva már megyünk is volt. A dolog ott kerződött, hogy vagy 20 hatalmas zsák növény várt fölpakolásra, amik kb akkorák voltak mint egy 200kgos ember. Ezeket egyessével a tetőre rögzítettek, miután mehetett a csomagtartóba pakolás. Ez sem volt semmi, mert megint csak az utasok hatalmas dobozokkal, amik legtöbbje ennivalót tartalmazott vagy egyéb dolgokat valószínű eladásra, álltak sorba a buszhoz. A csomagtartóba rakodás egy nagy teherhajó  megrakodásásra emlékeztetett (holott még sosem láttam), mikor  a különböző dobozokat próbálják egymáshoz illeszteni méretben, hogy minnél több beférjen. Délután 4kor be is fejeződött a megpakolás, s már fel is szállhattunk a buszra azokkal a csomagokkal együt, amiknek már nem jutott hely. Persze mi már meg sem probáltuk a mi csomagjainkat a csomagtartóba rakni, mert kb azok voltak a legkisebbek, így csak felvittük őket a buszra. A busz egy hatalmas 50 üléses öreg járgány volt, amire legalább 50 ember fel is szállt, ha nem több. Ezek között volt csecsemő és kisebb nagyobbb gyerek is. Tudtuk, hogy nem lesz valami kényelmes a busz, mert a rossz út miatt csak a régebbi járatok mennek errefelé.


Az eddigi legrosszabb busz élményünk

4 óra késéssel elidultunk, s csak reménykedtünk, hogy azért időben odaérünk. At út poros, zötykölődős és meleg volt. Megállni nem sokat álltunk meg, így vagy pisilni kellett, vagy éhesek voltunk, vagy nem kaptunk levegőt a portól, vagy csak simán izzadtunk mint a lovak. Szerencsésen megérkeztünk ugyan csak 4 óra késéssel, így a 16 órás út 24 órásra sikeredett.

Persze nagyon nem voltunk meglepődve ezen a latin amerika laza idő kezelés után, de kicsit idegesítő volt. Összességében ez volt a legrosszabb busz élményünk az elmúlt 8 hónap alatt, ami jelent valamit. Minden kényelmetlen volt és ragadós és zsúfolt és hosszú 🙂


Mangó paradicsom

Megérkezéskor nem sok hostelről tudtunk, így elvitettük magunkat 2 motoros taxival az egyik hostelbe amit a LP-ben találtunk, Oreon hotel. Sajnos az ára nem volt olcsó (150 boliviánó egy 2 személyes privát szobá), de mivel elég fáradtak voltunk a hosszú uttól, s a könyezet is nagyon szép volt: a kert tele volt függőágyakkal, avokádó és mangó fákkal, amik tömérdek mennyiségű ingyen mangót adtak egész nap. Sajnos másnap ki kellett chekkolni az ár miatt, de aki megtudja magának ezt engedni, annak mindenkép ajánljuk e helyet.

Következő hostelünk Santa Anna Hostel volt, szintén függőágyakkal, viszont csak 25 boliviánóért fejenként egy 3 személyes szobába.


Pampa túra

Aki errefelé jár, 2 különböző túra közül választhat a dzsungel túra, ami 3 napig viszi az arra kiváncsit az erdő rejtekébe, megmutatva annak minden növényzetét, s állatvilágják, ami leginkább rovarokban merül ki.

A másik túra, amit mi is választottunk a pampára vezetett, ahol szintán 3 nap alatt ismerkedhettünk meg a faunával és az állatviággal.

Első nap reggel indultunk, s 3 óra autókázás után el is érkeztünk a folyóhoz, ahol a következő 3 napot töltjük majd. Ezután 2 órán keresztül csónakáztunk a folyón, míg el nem értük a szállásunkat. Mikor már a folyhoz értünk vastagon be kellet magunkat fújni szúnyog riasztóval és naptejjel. Az ember azt se tudta melyiket kenje felülre, mert a nap is tűzőtt és a szúnyogok is ezreivel hemzsegtek. A  folyón csobogva lehetőségünk volt közelről látni egy-két krokodilt, több különböző fajta madarat, majmokat mik legtöbbje kis sárga majom volt. Utóbbit meg is álltunk megetetni. Vagyis túravezetőnk banándarabokat rakot a fákra, hogy a majmócák odajöjjenek és mi fényképet tudjunk csinálni róluk. Persze azt nem engedték, hogy mi etessük őket, mert a kezünk tele volt mindenféle kenceficével és méreganyaggal. Természetesen megfogni sem lehetett őket. Ennek mi nagyon örültünk, mert tudtuk, hogy jó csapattal túrázunk, akik tényleg figyelnek a körneyeztre és az állatokra. Emellet láttunk a világ legnagyobb rágcsálóját. Ügy néz ki, mint egy hód és tengeri maac keverék, csak 1 méteres kiadásban. A vízparton élnek, s itt keresnek maguknak rágcsálnivalót, ami természetesen növányből áll, s emellett nagyon gyorsan úsznak.

Mikor megérkeztünk a szállásra nem maradt más, mint szépen lepkolni, megfürdeni, megvcsorázni, s vacsi után elmenni egy éjszakai hajókázásra kaimánra leselkedve. Az ég gyönyörű fekete volt, tele csillagokkal az égen. Csodálatos volt csöndesen hajókázni és bámulni a csillagokat kaimánok helyett, akik valószínű ügyesen rejtőztek előlünk .-)

Éjszaka jól aludtunk, a szúnyoghálónap köszönhetően, ami az ágyat borította a szúnyogok távol maradtak, csak a már meglévő csípések viszkedtek de rendesen.

A következő posztban megtudhatjátok milyen is egy anakonda lesben, hogyan fogtunk piranhákat és milyen rózsaszin delfineket láttunk…